Any tech questions call Tommy Farrell at 830-220-3852.

Updated 01/01/2019


The rules and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly conduct of racing events. These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all participants are deemed to have complied with these rules.



They are intended as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to a participant, spectator, or official. The race director shall be empowered to permit reasonable and appropriate deviation from any of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in his/her opinion does not alter the minimum acceptable requirements. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the officials. Their decision is final.

The Management of Twisted Metal Mayhem


  • Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.

  • Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.

  • No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.

  • Any open door will be cause disqualification, a fire will be cause for disqualification. 

  • Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!

  • You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds or at the officials discretion.

  • You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.

  • This is not a team event, team driving will not be tolerated.

  • THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.

  • All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.

  • You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.

  • Dot approved helmet, gloves, a long sleeve shirt, safety glasses and pants are required. Neck brace in highly recommended.

  • Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.



  • All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.

  • All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.

  • Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.

  • Front seat must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.

  • All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.

  • Coolant must be drained and water added to radiator.

  • DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice!


These rules apply to both full size and compact cars unless otherwise noted

  • Compact cars can be FWD or RWD 4cyl or 6cyl with a maximum 107.5 wheelbase.                                  

  • NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car.

  • Any year Full size and Compact allowed EXCEPT No Imperials and Imperial sub frames, no Suicide Lincolns, and no Hearses, no limos, no trucks, no suv’s, no Camaros, no mini vans or AWD’s allowed.

  • Body component must be direct bolt up only.

  • Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons

  • Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris

  • No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding.

  • Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. You may tuck trunk with a single 90 degree bend.

  • Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added, you may cut a hole in the firewall for the distributor to go through as the front comes up.

  • Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 2 strands of #9 wire you also get one hood clip set per side 2x2x3 with one ½” bolt per tab set to bolt together, you may weld doors 6 inches total on each vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on each vertical seams only. 2” x 1/8” strap. Do not weld hood or trunk, except 4-1/2" tack welds per washer 1” washers max.

  • Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM, Exception: You may change a total of 6 body bolts out with 5/8” threaded rod no more than 24 inches long with a maximum of 3 nuts, 3 5/8” store bought washers and 3 5x5 ¼” plates per rod. Must be straight and vertical, no bends or angle pieces, zero welding or rod to body or frame to mount the rod. If you choose two of the 6 rods your allowed may be used in the core support, if you choose to do this the two rods in the core support may be ¾” threaded rod no more than 24 inches long with 3 plates 5x5 ¼” thick, 7 ¾” nuts, 7 3” OD 1/8” thick washers per rod, with a core support spacer that is no more than 2” OD and no more than 3” tall if the spacer is more than that you will cut completely out. Bottom nuts and washers must be inside frame rail, exception compact cars on unibody spots that rod is put through they can be outside unibody with washer, not plate, if you choose to use rod on sub frame you must follow mounting rules with spacer.

  • #9 wire or chain required in front windshield for driver protection, not reinforcement.


  • NO welding on frames allowed. You may dimple your rear frame rail in one spot per rear frame rail on top between hump and rear bumper.

  • No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock. ZERO aftermarket parts. You may swap springs from another passenger car, but front springs used in the front and rear springs in the rear no swapping, No truck springs allowed. You may change the upper A-arms on fords to stamped steel from the cast A-arms, but must be mounted in factory location using factory hardware.

  • Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock NO SHORTING, 100% stock

  • You may use 2 twist in spring spacers per side(store bought, no homemade)

  • You may you a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.

  • Frames and humps, no welding, altering other than notching or the two dimples that you are allowed in the rules. DO NOT put a hammer to the frame or humps, DO NOT pin the frame or humps, DO NOT plate or weld the frame or humps other than where stated in the rules. Frames will be scoped. These are not grey areas, if something is done that is not in the rules you will cut or will be loaded, the inspectors have the final decision.

  • Old iron no hard nosing, that includes to the factory shock mount, there must be a bumper shock in the factory mount. Factory bumper shock mounts cannot be moved and only welding on shocks and mounts will be what the rules allow or you will cut. Frame will not be altered for front bumper nor will the frame be welded to the bumper if the back of your bumper touches the frame if it does you will cut, if the frame is altered you will be loaded.


  • ANY drivetrain & transmission (manuals allowed, no aftermarket bellhousings, OEM only) allowed with the following criteria.

  • No pinion brakes.

  • Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise engine. If you need more than 1/2 to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar) - No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock cross members only. No welding, bolt only - May use 2’’x3’’x 6’’1/4 angle. If relocating (2- ½ bolts per side to mount to frame

  • You may weld rear end gears only.

  • Rear end swaps allowed, no bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement. Max axle size 31 spline Aftermarket axles allowed no more than 31 spline. You can change mount tabs to retro fit rear ends, Only welding is to mount tabs and mounts to retro fit another rear end I.E. a ford 9” in a GM, no reinforcing and it’s at the judge’s discretion on this, if it is too much you will be loaded. No rear ends with axles bigger than a 31 spline will allowed to run this includes floater type rear ends.

  • You may run 2 strands of #9 from rear end to frame, nothing thru body. 2 loops, 4 strands together in center twist only.

  • Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed, gas pedals and brakes, Clarification: none may strengthen car. Clutch pedal may be mounted to dash bar only. Aftermarket solid steering columns with universal joints allowed. 

  • No skid plates, protectors of any kind, and no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.

  • LOWER CRADLES ALLOWED, may only bolt to original spots on block for engine mounts and 2 spots on the face of the block, no cradles that cover the face of the block or attach to the heads or transmission, no pully protectors.

  • If you run an LS, you may use conversion brackets to accept an old style rubber frame mount.

  • You may have 2-5/16 chains, 1- per side attached from block or headers to engine frame mount not to frame or cradle nothing excessive only for safety - You may swap engines, i.e. Chevy in a Ford.

  • Slip shafts/ slider driveshaft allowed, If you run the stock driveshaft or your slider shaft does not bolt to flanges on both ends you are required to run a driveshaft loop that is mounted approx 6” from the back of the transmission, it can be constructed of chain or metal strap that can be bolted to sheetmetal only and not strengthen the car. 


  • 4 point square cage only, max 60 inch side bars 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor one down bar per side centered on drivers and passenger doors may be welded from side bar to floor sheetmetal only. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage. - Halo bar allowed attached with two ½” bolts and two ½” washers through the roof only and to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor. Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar but must be 6 inches from rear sheet metal.

  • Drivers door must be padded.

  • Gas tank and single battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat and covered, Battery centered in the passenger front floor. Exception: compact cars with fuel tank ahead of rear axle can be left in place. All full size cars gas tanks will be removed regardless.

  • Fuel tank mounts may be mounted to the back of the cage, they will be no more than 24” wide and 6” from any sheet metal, these are fuel tank mounts not protectors, do not fill the rear area on sedans and wagons with bars, you will cut to make legal.

  • Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.

  • Transmission coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.

  • There must be a fuel cutoff switch in drivers compartment that is visibly marked if car has An electric fuel pump.


  • You may weld bumper bracket(in factory location) to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper, single pass only, in addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame (example Crown Vics). BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. All bumpers will be a stock/replacement, no homemade bumpers, you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper, i.e. a loaded bumper, any material to load the bumper must between outer skin and inner bumper.

  • You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.

  • Bumpers may be flipped (upside down)

  • Compacts and 80’s and newer full size you may shorten up to 1 inch in front of the core support mount and may be hardnosed. Old iron DO NOT SHORTEN FRAME, shorten anything forward of the end of the frame you want, You must have a 1 inch gap between frame and bumper, the only thing that can be in that one inch gap is your welded shock. If your car did not come with a shock (example 71 Chevy) you may use a 74-76 BOP bracket mounted in stock location with stock bolts, only welding described above.

  • Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.

  • Homemade bumpers are allowed, must appear stock with chrome skin welded on.


  • No tires taller than 30”. 4 wheels max per car. No duals

  • No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt pattern, solid centers are fine, but no outer rim re-enforcement. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires.

  • No outer bead welding or plating. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rims

  • Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protectors.

  • Bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. Only allowed on inner bead, nothing allowed on outside bead.

  • Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.

  • All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.

  • Pinion brakes are allowed, mounts for pinion brakes will be a bolt on style that bolts to the center section it will not be welded on, they cannot be bolted, welded, attached in anyway to the axle tubes nor can it enhance the strength of the rear end. It cannot be used to strengthen the upper trailing arm mounts, attached to the upper trailing arm mounts or the upper trailing arm mounts mounted to it.

  • You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.


  • This is back to basics- if you spend more than 3 days you are over building it!!

  • Follow the general preparation rules for compacts and full size for stripping vans, all material must be removed except drivers seat, door padding and seat belt!

  • Vans shall be mini vans, NO full size, full frame or flat nose vans!

  • Front wheel drive, rear wheel drive only NO all wheel drive.

  • Air bags must be removed.

  • Follow drivers compartment rules for compacts and full size for roll cage, fuel tank and batterys.

  • Engine and transmission must be stock to make and model of mini van

  • Rear ends must be stock no swapping of rear ends or gear changes

  • No body creasing, folding or bending.

  • Suspension no modifications period! Air lift and air shocks must be deflated!

  • Electronics solenoid, voltage regulator and computer electronics may be relocated provided they remain forward of fire wall and under the hood.

  • Hood and trunk must open for inspection, must be 12X12 hole in hood. Attach hood and trunk in 6 places with 2 strands of #9 wire or ¼ chain.

  • Doors may be welded 6 inch total on each vertical seam 12 inch for drivers door, or you may use 2 strands of #9 wire or ¼ chain to chain or wire each door in 6 spots.

  • If you have electric fuel pump you will need a cut off switch that is clearly marked within reach of the driver.

  • You may use stock bumper or you may replace with 1980 or newer stock automotive bumper. You may use 8 bolts to bolt it up. Bumper will be cut down to size and no wider than stock factory bumper. Bumper ends must be smashed in no sharp ends. NO HOMEMADE BUMPERS!

  • Tires must be of OEM nature! No cut tires, No exotic tires, No after market tires. Must be stock Radial tires only. (You may use tube in the tire)

  • No trailer hitches, special lifts, blocks, shackles.

  • Must have working brakes.

    Power Wheels

  • At all times remember this is for the kids!!

  • Ages 5-10

  • When choosing a power wheel for your child keep in mind these vehicles will be running into each other. The power wheels will need to be the kind that your child sits in, NOT on. No 4 wheelers, tractors, motorcycles, ETC.

  • Helmets are Mandatory!!! Bicycle helmet is ok to use.

  • All doors, hoods, trunks must be strapped shut using Tape, Zip ties, Rope or other flexible material for making them stay shut.

  • Stock tires only no screws, water, chains or foam in tires. You can duct tape tires to prevent them from breaking.

  • Do not raise or lower power wheels. They must sit like how they came from the store.

  • No Passengers.

  • Motor must remain stock.

  • Decorative changes can be made to the power wheels to make it look like a derby car. There can not be anything added to reinforce the power wheel. Examples headers pipes sticking up and painting the car.

  • Shoes or Sneakers required NO SANDALS.

  • Derby is limited to 6-12 volt power wheels only!! No connecting multiple battery’s together. The vehicle is allowed to have up to a 12 volt lawn mower or motorcycle battery. Battery can not be mounted in the passenger seat and must be secured and sealed away from the child.

  • Must have 1 parent with the child on the track.

    We will line the kids up they will have a balloon on the front and back of the power wheel. Once both balloons are popped, they are out.

    This event is free for your child to participate in to sign up contact

    Johnny Widener 254-833-0042

    Patrick Wilson 254-290-6262

These are the rules basic chain and bang rules. If it says you can not do it then do not do it!!